WHO what where when how why I thought I might share my influences of how my affinity for American Classic Timeless Menswear has developed over the past 50 plus years if anyone is interested😴. In this first of a series of posts I thought I might start with WHO as in who have been my influencers. Naturally the many bosses and mentors at the three clothing firms (Bob Hunts, McCalls And Harold’s ) shaped my views more than anyone, but in order to make this post relatable I thought I would point out a few icons that virtually everyone should know. Let’s start with the more recent and work backwards. G. Bruce Boyer-this author of multiple style books and former writer for Town and Country has become the consummate expert on what denotes classic timeless menswear. He is featured on sites such as Ben Silver, J. Press, and The UK’s Permanent Style to name a few. Whenever I see a picture of Boyer I think three things, • I would wear exactly what he has on, • he exudes that fantastic Americana Sprezzatura look of comfort in a tailored outfit, and • he ain’t a movie star-so maybe just maybe I could look that cool myself. I love his subtle style tweakes like buttoning a cardigan with only two buttons , or leaving a waist coat’s top and bottom button undone, or his use of boldly colored socks in an otherwise mundane outfit, or his use of tattersalls and a complete nonchalant view of tucking his smaller tie blade into the tie keeper or not. His art is in the minutiae. He has exactly the style of dress we at Harold’s would have identified as a Harold’s man: Confident, comfortable, well put together. Here is an example of the brilliance of his writing: https://pin.it/1XOJcW62R Ralph Lauren- the Man who saved Menswear. My first experience with RL clothing was at Harold’s. At a former store we sold Izods (or Lacrosse) polos. Back then there were several knock-offs but no one had the fit and beefy placket that Izod had. That is until RL came on the scene with his interlock weave. RL fabrics were clearly superior. Upon buying my first one, I delved into the magic of RL. He scoured thrift stores in London and reverse engineered and contracted with old-line suit firms to private label his clothing. His plaid shirts had many more thread counts and thus more colors than anyone else. This added depth and softness to the shirts. This was all before the department stores were allowed to sell Ralph Lauren and the (gag) preppy worship of the high holy horse started. Simply put, Ralph virtually single handedly recaptured the allure and grandeur of the 1920’s through 1950’s golden era of menswear precisely when America needed it most, immediately following an apocalyptic disaster known as the 1970’s. I could write all day about RL, But suffice to say-he made an impact. He was a visionary rebel who relentlessly worked toward his dream and we caught his vision. Hear him in his own words:

"You need to be aware of what others are doing , applaud thier successes, and encourage them in thier pursuits. When we all help one another, we all win." Jim Stoval Have a wonderful day brothers.

Wishing everyone a solemn Easter Saturday Hat: Trilby (Stanton) Overcoat: Black Wool/Cashmere (Woolcott Street) Suit: Black Merino Wool (Woolcott Street) Dress Shirt: White (Woolcott Street) Tie: Marine Navy Blue (OOTA) Pocket Square: White Satin (Unknown) Ring: Gold Custom Signet (Royal Signet) Watch: Gold/White Tank Dial (Seiko) Socks: Navy Blue (Brooks Brothers) Shoes: Black Monkstraps (Woolcott Street) Fragrance: Black Orchid EDP (Tom Ford)

Black is a fringe color. In many ways it’s akin to wearing a pale green suit- but in reverse. Perhaps There seems to be some confusion about its use as though it’s an essential conservative color in suiting. While that is true for tuxedos and a color to wear to a funeral, in virtually any other circumstance it’s the opposite of conservative. It’s a bold stand-out statement. Unless you are in an environment where a black suit for funerals is required it should be way down the list of essential purchases. The order (for suits) instead should be tiered as follows A. Charcoal Grey/ Navy/lighter grey B. Tans/browns/olives C Black/ burgundy’s etc In most cases a charcoal suit can supplant a black suit and since it is the most versatile color that exists, it has infinitely more uses than a black. Because of black’s stark boldness it should be thought of as a fringe bold color in either suiting or certain accessories. That all said-I can think of no other day in the year that represents more boldness than Good Friday. The 4*6 foot oil painting in my home office representing that very day has an interesting backstory but the short version is that it was painted by a cousin and it hung at the front of the church I attended with my grandparents throughout my entire childhood. Even though this is a market Holiday I have one lunch meeting with a client so I put on the following OOTD. MTM 1987 Royal blue blazer Black cut and sewn shirt Silver with black polka dot silk Pocket Square MTM charcoal trousers Byford OTC merino wool socks in black J Fitzpatrick black captoes Casio dive watch in black

Another day at the baseball tournament. We’re about to play our last pool play game to determine position for playoffs tomorrow. We’ve won their first three games by a lot. Fourth game is expected to be against a very good team. Went for another linen and suede accents today. Details on it later.